Machine for pressing and shaping points of collar tops



Feb. 19, 1935.. G, J, DORMANDY 1,992,162

MACHINE FOR PRESSING AND SHAPING POINTS OF COLLAR TOPS Filed June 30, 1930 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 [22 v erzi'o r arrg J 00/777004 Feb; 19,1935. DORMANDY 1,992,162

MACHINE FOR PRESSING AND SHAPING POINTS OF COLLAR TOPS Filed June 30, 1930 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 frzverzi'or" F1 5 fiarry J Dar/randy ms/W Feb. 19, 1935. DQRMANDY 1,992,162

MACHINE FOR PRESSING AND SHAPING POINTS OF COLLAR TOPS Filed JuneSO, 1930 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Inventor 60/119 J Donna/nay Feb. 19, 1935. J DORMANDY 1,992,162

MACHINE FOR PRESSING AND SHAPING POINTS OF COLLAR TOPS Filed Jun-e 3Q, 1930 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 F JEL J7 i 4f "67 I 9 a; 9 g /d n g WEE 45 7 w Inventor" 60mg 1. flormandy Feb. 19,1935. D MANDY 1,992,162

MACHINE FOR PRESSING AND SHAPING POINTS OF COLLAR TOPS Filed June 30, 1930 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 I Inventor fiar/y J flarmandg Patented Feb. 19, 1935 UNITED S A ES I 1,992,162 7 'MACHINE FOR PRESSING'AND SHAPING POINTS OF COLLAR TOPS Garry J; Dormandy,"1roy, N. Y., assignor to M.

Nirenberg Sons Inc., Troy, N. Y.,' a

of New York corporation Ap licatio June 30, 1930, Serial No. 464,897 13 Claims. (01. 223-45) My invention relates to collar pressing machines and, while adaptable for use in pressing the points of collars known as the stiff or starched variety, is particularly adapted and will be found particularly useful in pressing the points of the so called soft or semi-soft collars, especially those with long, narrow, sharp points, usually made by what is known asthe hand method. In making such collars, three and sometimes four plies of cloth are cut somewhat larger than the finished collar is intended to be. These plies of cloth are then secured together by a row of stitching, usually about three-sixteenth inch from the edge, which extends along one sideand acrossthe two ends of the collar. The collar is then turned inside'out by hand, leaving the three-sixteenth inch margin of cloth between the edge and the stitching on the inside of the finished collar. It will be readily apparent that this largevolume of cloth,-'crowded and bunched on the inside of thepoint, of a narrow, sharp-pointed collar will leave the point very thick and havea tendencyto bulge the edges of the collar at each side of the point beyond lars are eliminated. More particularly, my invention provides a methodof procedure and-a neans whereby the pointsof collar tops are formed to the precise shape desired and without unsightly bulges or irregularities. V i

I accomplish my objects generally by first forcing the points into the desiredshape and then holding them in that shape during the pressing operation. Or, in other words, the edges of the point are first laterally confined in'predetermined angular relation and heat and pressure are then simultaneously applied to permanently and smoothly formthe collar point to the desired configuration. V v

It isto be understood that my invention is in nowise limited to any particular apparatus for performing the process but I have illustrated in the accompanying drawings one. embodiment of a machine whichmay be conveniently utilized 7 therefor.

In the drawings- Fig. 1 is a side sectional elevation view, of a machine adapted to perform my process and is taken in about theplane 1-1 of Fig. 6; f Fig. 2 is a fragmentary section of Fig. 1 in the plane, 2--2;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a presser in inverted position;

i Fig. 4 is a sectional view of Fig. 1 in the broken plane 4-4;

Fig. 5 is a sectional view of Fig. 4 in a plane 55 s Fig. 6 is asection of Fig. 1 in the broken plane 66, and turned 90 degrees in a clockwise direction; a

Fig. '7 is a perspective view of a detail; Fig. 8 is an. inverted perspective view of a detail; v

Fig. 9 is a front elevation view of my machine; Fig. 10 is a plan viewv of the point of a collar top before it is finished by pressingand shaping in my machine; 7 i

Fig. llis a plan view of a point of a collar top after being pressed and shaped in my machine; .Fig. 12 is a plan view of the presing bed showing adjustable jaw plates for confining the lateral edges of the collar point during pressing; Fig. 13 is-afragmentary side view of my machine'showing, in partial section, an adjustable pressing head, and is taken about the plane 13-13 of; Fig. 14; i i

Fig. 14 is a fragmentary plan view, partially in section, in the plane 1414 of Fig. 13; and

Fig.15 is a section of Fig. 12 in the plane 1515. 7 Referring to Figs. 1, 4, Sand 9 of the drawings, my.device comprises a table, 1, forming a support for the machine proper and to which the base, 2, is secured by any suitable means. The

of the base is formed the lower part of an oil- ,tight casing, '7, within which is mounted some of the actuating mechanism of-the device. The casingis-providedwith an. oil level gauge, 86, and with a cover portion,'8, secured to the lower part, '7, by-screws, 9, passing through the flanges,

'10, a gasket,-11, being interposed between the flanges to secure an oil-tight joint. Mounted in bearings, 12 and 13, secured to the cover portion,

8, is the worm, l4, driven by the pulley, 15, over 5 which runs .the driving belt, 16. The worm, 14, meshes with the worm wheel, 17, rotatably-mounted on shaft, 18, secured to the lower half, '7, of the casing. The worm wheel, 17, is secured to and drives the cam, 19, which actuates the pressing pressing head, 40.

head through the mechanism now to be described.

Mounted in the cover portion, 8, of the casing, and slightly above and parallel to worm shaft is a shaft, 20, upon which is mounted the crank, 21, provided with the angularly disposed arms, 22 and 23. The depending arm, 23, is provided at its lower extremity with a cam following roller, 24, (see Fig. 4) which coacts with the slot, 25, in cam, 19. There is also loosely mounted on the shaft, 20, the lever, 26, provided with the offset bearing collar, 27, (see Fig.6) and hav in'g at its extremity a bifurcated portion, 28. Secured to the lever, 26, is a depending stud or can screw, 29, which passes rather loosely through an opening, 30, in arm, 22. Compressed between arm, 22, and washer, 31, which is supported by the head of the stud, 29, is a rather stiff helicalspring, 32.

From the foregoing it will be apparent that as the cam, 19, rotates it will move the depending arm, 23, toward position, 23, and depresses the arm, 22, to the position, 22". Since the spring,'32, is rather'stilf, thedowriwardrhbvemeht of the arm, 22, to the position, 22, will carry with it the lever, 26, but, in the event that the movement of the lever, 26, should be stopped before thearm, 23, reaches the position, 23', arm, 22, willmove away from arm, 26, and compress the spring, 32. e I

Secured to the front part of the cover'portion, '8, by'means of'screws, 33, is a vertically extending cylindrical or tubular element, 34, in which is slidably fitted a plunger, 35. The freedom of movement of the plunger in the cylinder may be controlled by the adjusting screws, 87, (see Figs. 6 and 9). opening, 36, therein, into which the bifurcated end of lever, 26, projects and engages 'a roller, 3'7, secured to the plunger, 35, on the axis, 38. The bottom of the plunger, 35, is hollow and interiorally threaded to receive the's'temj39, ofthe pressinghead, 40. Secured to the'bottom'ofthe pressing headf40, by meansof screws,- 41, is a pressing element, 42. r

The'stem, 39, is hollowed to receivethe helical spring, 43,, which is compressed between the inside top ofthe stem, 39, and the head, 44,-of the finger, 45. It will be apparent that the stem, 39, maybe threaded any desired distance into the plunger, 35, and secured in position by means 'of lock nut, 46. V

:Referring moreparticularly toFigs. 1, 4,- 7, 8

and 9, there is secured to the pressing bed a fixed plate, 47, provided on the rear left portionthereof with an upright bearing, 48. Pivoted on the axis, 49; in the bearing, 48, is the crank 50. The upper end of the crank, 50, is provided witha slotted opening, 51, which embraces a roller bearing, 52, (see Fig. 1) supported on the rear side of the It will be apparentthat as the pressing head descends crank, 50,'will be forced downwardly and the lower end, 53, thereof will move to the left as viewed in Fig. 9. The

pressing bed, 3, is provided with an upstanding portion, "a, (se Figs. 41am 7) which 'eigten'ds alo e t t arisi e ma e-4' "Th pa ties of plate, 56,'is provided with areces's oropeni'ng,

'larly conforming to different collar points.

The plunger, 35, is provided with an 60, adapted to receive the lower end, 53, of the crank, 50. The end, 53, of the crank, 50, depends into the opening, 60, and engages a plunger, 61. which is mounted in an opening, 62, in plate, 56. The plunger, 61, is secured in position by means of the screw, 63, which also serves as an adjusting means for regulating the distance which the plunger, 61, projects from its cylinder.

As the crank, 50, is depressed by the downward movement of the pressing head the lower one, 53, of the crank will be forced against the the plunger, 61, is understood to be of sufficient stiffness so that a sliding movement of the plate,

'56,' toward theplateffl, will be effected without compressing this spring, the purpose of the spring being to permit some additional movement of the "end'of the plunger, 61, and the spring, 64, behind 67,'which'may be removed and replaced by other jaw plates to provide anotch orop'enlng angu- Itls to be understood that thesides, 68 mate, of the presser, 42, (see Fig. 3) are disposed at an angle conformingto the angle, A, of thecollar point and that thepress'er in its' downwardm'oveit is desirable that the angle betweenthe jaw. plates be adjustable, and thatfor any given angle between the jaw plates the presser be adjustable 'so that the-lateral edge thereoflin des'c'ending just clears the edge of the jaw,'66. Accordingly, I have provided jaws and apresser which are adjustab'l'e, but "before describing thesemodiflcationsit is believed the invention will be better understood by first explaining the 'dperationlof the machine. 7

In 'operationgit is tdbdundefsto'odthat the mechanism is" being driven at -appropriate speed by means of the belt, 16, and that themechanism may be'putin "orout of operation by -'s\.|itable clutches actuatedby the 'foot' of the' operatoror otherwise. Assurr'ring'f-the'parts to be in the' positions shown by the solid lines in Fig. lfthe 0pe rator places the collar'point'onthe pressing bed and between'the jaw "plates, "'66 a-r1d"67,"'i n the position shewnin Fig: 4. *I'hat is, the edge of the collar 'is pressed against the 'jaw plate, "66. I'To preventE'inju'ry to-the operator 9. finger guard, '70, is shown in Figs. 4 and 9, which extends across the'fspace between the' j'aw'plates. As the cam, 19,-'rotatesthe depending portion, 23, 'of

the crank, 21, is moved to the' position, 23';-and' j the arm, 22, is moved downwardly to" the-"position, 22'.

pushes' -the lever, 26, downwardly and'the'lever,

holding finger, 45, is brought into cont'alctP' wlth the collar, '71, (see Fig. 1) and 'serves tcfihold the collaf"-point*in biaoed poeihon acting the fl'i i'fil r N inasmuch 'a s the spring, 32, is quite stiff, thisdownward'movement of the arm,"22,. 7'o

descent of thepresser head. Asthe. presserdescends, the crank, 50, is forced downwardly. and the lower end thereof coacting with'the plunger, 61, begins to move the plate, 56, to the left. "The downward movement of the presser, 42, and the movement of the plate, 56, are sotimed that the jaw plate, 67, does notreach the edge of the collar untilafter the presser has descended below the top plane of the jaw, 6'7. It is to'be understood, however; that the jaw plate, 6'7, is brought into contact with the face, 69, (see Fig. 3) of the presser before the presser reaches thecollar. During the downward movement of the presser,.42, fin.- ger, 45,.remains incontact'with the collar, '71, and gradually recedes into the presser as the spring, .43, is compressed.

After the presser,42, is brought into contact with the collar, any further downward movementv thereof and, of the actuating lever, 26, is prevented. -At this point, thearm, 22, of the crank, 21, leaves the lever, 26, and compresses the spring, 32, during the further downward movement of the arm, 22. Thus, the deviceis adapted to press collars of various thicknesses without any adjustment whatever.

It will be apparent that themovement to the left of j the plate, 56, is positively preventedas the jaw plate, 67, .comes into contact with the lateral face, 69, of the presser. At this 'point the plunger,..61, begins to recede against the compression of spring, 64, so that the jaw plate,

6'7, is held in yielding contact with the lateral face, 69, of the presser.

During the interval of time. that the presser is held in contact with the collar, and which is determined by the length of the straight part,

'72,of the slot in'cam, 19; heat is being'applied at right angles thereto because of the jaws, 66.

and 6'7, which prevent any lateral movement thereof.

-. Referring now more particularly to Figs. l2, l3, 1 and 15, I'will'describethe modification ofv my invention shown therein whereby theflateral pressing jaws and the presser are made adjustable to conform to'different point angles. In the modified-form, theplate, 4'7, which carries the bearing, 48, is provided with slotted holes,"73 and '74, through which pass screws securing the plate to the pressing bed, 3. By means'of these slotted holes the plate, 4'7, may be moved a limited distance to the right or the left and secured in any position within the limits of its movement. Secured to the plate, 4'7, is a movable jaw'plate, 66, having a corner, '75, thereof in contact with an edgeof sliding plate, 56'. Plate, 66, is secured to the plate, 4'7, by means of a screw, '76, which'passes through an arcuate, slotted opening, '77, in the plate, 66'. This arcuate' slot has its center at the point, 75, so that when the screw, '76, is loosened the plate, 66,'may be moved angularly about the point, '75, as a center,

. Likewise the-jaw plate, 6'7','is secured to the sliding plate, 56', by means of screws, 78 and '79, passing through arcuate'slots in the plate, 6'7, and which are described with the point, 80, as'a center. By loosening the screws, '78 and '79, the jaw plate, 67', may be moved about the point, 80, as a center and secured invarious angular relations to the jaw plate, 66'. Thus the lateral forming, forcing or pressing jaws may be adjusted to conform to the angle of any collar point- It is to be understood that pressers, such as 42,

adjustable to various angles and it is -always 1 desirable that one of the lateral faces of the presser in its downward movement justclears the edge of this jaw plate. It is nceessary to provide some means for angularly'adjusting thepresser. In order that the extreme point of the collar may be pressed, it is also quite essential that the point, 81, (see Figs. 3, 13 and 14) should be main tained substantially in vertical alignment with the point, -75,' (see Fig. 12) on jaw plate, 66. That is, it should remain substantially against the edge, 82, on the sliding plate, 56. It will be apparent from a consideration of Fig. 1 that the stem, 39, carryingthe presser head, 40, to which the presser, 42, is attached, may be turned about its axis provided the nut, 46, is loosened and the crank, 50, disengaged therefromflxTo eliminate the necessity of disengaging crank, 50, I.have provided the inner edge of the presser head, shown in Figs. 13 and '14, with a circumferential slot,

' 83, and have affixed a roller bearing, 84, to the crank, 50. By this arrangement the presser head, 40, and the attached presser may be turned by loosening the nut, 46, so that the edge, .68,.will lie in substantially the same vertical plane as the side of the jaw plate, 66. However, mso turning the presserjthe point, 81, which was heretofore in vertical alignment with the edge, 82, of plate, 66', will be movedaway from this edge andit is therefore necessary that the presser head shown in Figs. 13 and-14, be provided with slotted'holes, 85, throughwhich pass the screws; 41, secured to the presser; I have thus provided both a turning and a sliding adjustment for the presser'so that it may be adjusted to conform to the angle between jaw plates, 66' and67, and to the'angle of the collar.

Since the sliding plate,'56 or 56,1moves towards jaw, 66 or 66', inforcing the lateral edges of the collar into the proper-angular relation there is sometimes a tendency to force the collar out of thejaws where the edge of the jaw plate, 66 or 66', is disposed at an angle'which, is too obtuse to the direction of movement of the plate, 56or 56'. For example, there is more of a tendency to force the collar out of the space between the jaws when the jaw plate, 66, is disposed at the angle shown in Fig. '7 than when it is disposed at the angle of the plate, 66', shown in Fig. 12. Therefore there is some, advantage in arranging the press collars of any thickness without the neces- 1'. ,In a device for shaping :thezpoint of "a ;col-

lar, :the combination withamressing bed upon whichthe point is placed, of a presserv adapted to be brought into contact with .the point under substantial pressure, means'for holding thexpoint on the-:bed to preventdisplacement as the presser approaches, and means comprising a lateral movable-member for Y confining the collar :point during the pressing operation.

.52. 'In a-device for shaping the point of a collar, thecombination with a pressing bed upon'which the point is placed of -means for holdingithe point in placed position, means for maintaining the edges of the point'in fixed angularrelation, means for applying heat and pressure to the point, and means comprising a'laterahmovable member for confining the collar point during the pressing operation.

3. In a device for pressing the point of :a collar, the combination with'a presser conforming generally to the angle of the collar point, of a'pair of .angularly disposed jaws for preventing laterfor: yieldinglybringing the presser into contact with the collar point, a second, movable jaw, and means for yieldinglybringing said movable jaw 7 into contact with the side of the presser and the other edge of the collar point.

.'5. An apparatus as characterized for forming the corners of substantially fiat garments, comprising a flat die movable in one direction-to apply fiatwise pressureto the garment,-and an edge die. movable in a direction substantially at right angles to the direction of movement of said flat die to apply edgewise pressure to the garment, and means for simultaneously moving said dies.

6. An apparatus as characterized for-forming the corners of substantially flat garments, comprising a flat die movable in one direction to apply'flatwise pressure to the garment, a fixed die against which an edge of the gar-ment may be positioned, an edge die movable toward said fixed die and in a direction substantially-at right a ngles to the direction or" movement of said fiatidie to apply edgewise-pressure to the garment, and means for simultaneously moving said-fiat die andedge die into operative engagement with the garment.

'7.An apparatus as characterized for-forming the corners of substantially flat garments, comprising a flat die movable in one direction to-apply flatwise pressure to the=garment, a fixed die against which an edge of-the garment maybe positioned, an edge die movable toward said fixed dieand in a direction substantially at right angles to the direction of movement of said fiat die toapply edgewise pressure to the garment, means for simultaneously moving said fiat die and edge die; into;operativeengagement rwiththe' garment, and means-for-heatingthe. portion zofzthe-gammt between saidrdies "while saidcpresslnes erefheilw applied. 7

8. 'In'aadevicefor pressingrzthexpoint ofa..eoi-

lar, a-jpressingi-bedupon. which the coilarlis place,d,,a pair-of'jawsonsaid bedangularly disq posed to conform to the angle of: thecollar point,

a press'eryhaving .a presser/face .coniorming ito theangle of the collar point,:meens ior yield- I the edgesofthe-collar point, means tor-bringing saidrpresser into pressing engagement] with the flat surface of the collar point and means 'tor simultaneously applying heat to said coiiar point. l-

-10. In a'device for shaping-the point :0! a col lar, the combination with the pressing bedupen which the point .isplaced, of .a presser adapted to be brought into contact with the point:under substantial pressure, means "for holding the point on the'bed to'prevent :displacmentl as the presser approaches, and means comprising relatively movable'members'for confining the collar point during the pressing operation.

11. In a device for shaping the poinirof-ncol lar, the combination with a pressing bed upon which the, point is placed,..of 'apresser -.a.da.pted

to be brought into contact withfihe-pointundu substantial pressure, means for "holding :the point on the bedto prevent -:displa-cementas:the presser approaches, -:means comprising .a. 1 fixed and a movable member for. confining thezeaiia'r point during the pressing operation 'andrmeans comprising a yielding connectionifor forcing said movable member toward 'said fixed member.

12. An apparatusas'characterized for forming V the corners of substantiallyxflat garments roan-.- prising a fiatdie-movable :in one directiomhmaw ply fiatwise pressure-to the garment, -.a against which an edge ofit-he "garment maybe positioned, an edge die :movable toxward a-said fixed ,-dieto apply edgewiserpressureitot 11136588!- ment and means for moving said flat-die iamdjh ment, means for moving said rfiat :die ,andathe movable edge die into operative engagement with the garment and means for heating'the portion of the garment between said-dies while said pressers are being applied. I I

GARRY J .'DORMANDY. 

